Kerala's backwaters: booked out and stuck in traffic
For most people, 'Kerala backwaters' means Alleppey. It deserves this position because of its beauty alone. The problem: reputation and reality have drifted apart.
There are close to a thousand houseboats operating on the same waterways. Several reports describe the opposite of heaven: engines running nonstop, boats crowding each other, a mood that contradicts the 'peaceful cruise' pitch.
Besides, the main issue in terms of visiting Alleppey or the Kerala backwaters in general is overcrowding. It's not an issue of beauty; it's volume. The real question isn't whether to visit; it's which backwaters, and where to stay.
The Kollam alternative: no waiting lines
Kollam is located along Ashtamudi Lake, the second-largest in Kerala and one of the main gateways into the backwaters system. You're not visiting a lesser copy of the backwaters; you're at one of the actual sources, with far fewer boats competing for the same shot.
Fragrant Nature Kollam: the best backwater resort in Kerala; this is what staying here really means.
Your room will be right next to the water:
- Beautiful Lake View Rooms: traditional Kerala-style architecture with a terrace.
- Premium Lake View Villa: about 850 sq ft, an outdoor terrace, built with eco-conscious materials. Sleeps up to four.
- Private Pool Villa with Terrace: enjoy your private plunge pool, or use the common pool if you'd rather mingle.
- Lake View Family Cottage with Private Pool: sleeps up to 6, comes with a 12x6 metre pool plus a separate kids' pool, best for families or small groups splitting a villa
Things to actually do beyond staring at water:
- Backwater boat rides on Paravur Lake,
- Kayaking and canoeing through the calmer canals
- Full houseboat bookings on Ashtamudi Lake, day trip or overnight, arranged through the resort's travel desk
- Fishing and birdwatching, with otters and herons showing up often enough that guests mention them unprompted in reviews
Great food, all on the property. Restaurant options: Anna Rasa for an all-day buffet with multi-cuisine dishes served by the kitchen (Kerala seafood curries and traditional sadhya among others), Rithulahari for tea, coffee, and snacks when you don't want a full sit-down meal, and Sandhya for a lakeside multi-cuisine buffet.
Day trips if you want to leave the property:
- Varkala Cliff and Papanasam Beach: around 30 min. distance
- Jatayu Earth Centre with the world's largest bird sculpture: approx. 45 min. distance
- Thangassery Lighthouse, Munroe Island, and Oachira Temple, all easily reachable by car
- It's about 75 km (1.5 hours) on NH66 from Cochin International Airport, or 20 km (about 30 minutes) from Kollam junction railway station.
- Ideal for couples who want quiet romance and not loud attractions. The private terraces and lake views do the work here.
- Families seeking space, not only a room. A private-pool cottage solves the cramped-room problem before it starts.
- For anyone who's already done Alleppey and wants to see what the backwaters feel like without the boat parade.
